Saba (Mackerel) Sushi

Saba / Mackerel

Silver-skinned Fish

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Perciformes, Scombridae, Scomber

The commonly distributed mackerel are three kinds: chub mackerel (masaba), spotted mackerel (gomasaba), and Atlantic (Pacific) mackerel. Chub mackerel is in season in autumn and winter and its taste tends to decline in summer, while spotted mackerel is consistent throughout the year. The thoroughly quality-managed Atlantic mackerel, famous for its strict control, is imported from Norway.

When grown, mackerel are roughly 50 cm and live in subtropical and temperate waters around the world and in the seas near the Japanese archipelago, with a lifespan of about 6 to 7 years. They are migratory fish that move north from spring to summer and south from autumn to winter, and the northbound and southbound mackerel differ in how much fat they carry. The season is autumn to winter, and among these, autumn mackerel that have finished spawning are fatty, with firm flesh and notably good flavor, known as a byword for deliciousness. The DHA and EPA contained in mackerel are effective in preventing arteriosclerosis and thrombosis; in particular, in-season mackerel contains large amounts of unsaturated fatty acids such as DHA and IPA, as well as abundant vitamins, potassium, and iron. In the days before refrigeration technology like today's, mackerel was salted, vinegared, or grilled and carried from coastal areas to inland areas using the "saba kaido" (mackerel roads) across the country. Mackerel was originally a fish whose freshness dropped so quickly that it was said to "rot while still alive," but with recent technological advances, relatively fresh ones can now be obtained anywhere. Besides the high-class brand "Seki saba" and the regional brand "Kinka saba," the "Shimizu saba" and "kubiore saba," which can be eaten raw, are famous. In the past, chub mackerel was the representative mackerel, but in recent years spotted mackerel has also been increasing. Spotted mackerel can be distinguished by the black spots on its belly, which chub mackerel lacks. For Edomae nigiri sushi, vinegar-cured mackerel is mainly chub mackerel, and raw mackerel is mainly spotted mackerel.

Various kinds of mackerel sushi

Besides vinegar-cured mackerel (shimesaba) and raw mackerel nigiri, there are mackerel sushi all over the country. Well-known examples include the "kakinoha-zushi" of Nara (Yoshino) wrapped in persimmon leaves, the "sasa-zushi" of Toyama and Wakayama (Kishu) wrapped in bamboo leaves, the "hoba-zushi" of Gifu wrapped in magnolia leaves, and the "sugata-zushi" of Hiroshima in which salted mackerel is stuffed with vinegared rice. Even Osaka's "matsumae-zushi" (battera), which originally used konoshiro (gizzard shad), now uses mackerel, showing how mackerel sushi continues to change along with advances in freezing technology.

Mackerel kakinoha-zushi (persimmon-leaf sushi)

A tale of a daughter-in-law and mother-in-law over autumn mackerel

The saying "Don't feed autumn mackerel to the daughter-in-law" expresses "a mother-in-law's bullying, telling her not to let the daughter-in-law eat the most delicious thing," but there is actually another interpretation. That one means "because mackerel spoils easily and can cause food poisoning, it is better not to let a pregnant daughter-in-law eat it," which is far kinder than the former. Which one applies seems to depend on the relationship between the daughter-in-law and mother-in-law, but if possible, you would want it to be the latter.