Maki-zushi (rolled sushi) has long been cherished not only at sushi shops but also at home and at bento shops. There are various kinds of maki-zushi, and one well-known maki-zushi is "kanpyo-maki." This time, we would like to introduce basic knowledge about kanpyo-maki, as well as delicious shops where you can eat kanpyo-maki!

What is kanpyo-maki?

Kanpyo (dried gourd strips) is made by peeling the fruit of the bottle gourd (yugao), a plant of the gourd family, into long thin strips and drying them; it is rehydrated with water and used in sushi, simmered dishes, and so on. Kanpyo-maki is, as its name suggests, kanpyo rolled with nori and rice, and is a type of maki-zushi commonly served as a thin roll (hosomaki).

Kanpyo is generally rehydrated with water and then simmered, and during simmering it is seasoned with soy sauce, sugar, and the like. Because this seasoning varies from sushi shop to sushi shop, in the old days it was said that the taste of the kanpyo-maki revealed the quality of the shop and the skill of the chef.

Though it is a traditional maki-zushi cherished since the Edo period, because the rolled form resembles a gun it is sometimes called "teppo-maki" (gun roll), and because the main trading place for kanpyo was the Kizu market in Osaka, it is sometimes called "Kizu" in sushi-shop jargon.

Incidentally, kanpyo is low in calories but also rich in nutritional components such as calcium, potassium, phosphorus, and iron, as well as dietary fiber, so it has the welcome side of being nutritious.

The history of kanpyo-maki

Maki-zushi, known as one of the staples of Edomae-zushi, actually has a history older than hand-formed sushi; its roots are thought to lie in bo-zushi, a kind of fermented sushi, and maki-zushi close to its modern form is thought, from Edo-period sources and the like, to have begun around 1750-1776.

As for kanpyo-maki, it appears as a thin roll of kanpyo in the "Morisada Manko," a kind of Edo-period encyclopedia published in 1810, so it can be said that it had become established in the food life of common people by around the latter half of the 18th century.

The Edo period was an era when various aspects of common culture blossomed and the food environment underwent major changes accordingly. Kanpyo-maki was a presence that added color to the food life of common people.

Morisada Manko, Latter Collection Vol. 1

How to eat kanpyo-maki

For rolls such as tekka-maki, made by rolling tuna, the roll is made so the cross-section is square and one roll is cut into six pieces, but kanpyo-maki is customarily rolled so it is round and cut into four pieces. A size of about four cuts lets you fully savor the long, thin kanpyo.

Also, when you order kanpyo-maki at a sushi shop, you are sometimes asked, "Shall I add wasabi?" Those hearing this for the first time may think that wasabi doesn't go with kanpyo-maki.

However, when you actually eat it, the stimulation of the wasabi sets off the sweetness of the kanpyo just right, with an indescribable deliciousness. For those who have not yet tried it, it might be good to give it a go once.

Three recommended shops where you can eat delicious kanpyo-maki!

You can eat kanpyo-maki at home too, but for those who want to eat the kanpyo-maki of an authentic sushi restaurant, we introduce recommended shops where you can eat delicious kanpyo-maki.

Asakusa Shinoda-zushi

The first one we introduce is "Asakusa Shinoda-zushi," standing in a corner of an alley in Asakusa.

The parent shop, "Ningyocho Shinoda-zushi Sohonten," is an old-established sushi shop founded in 1877 (Meiji 10). It was later branched off into several shops, one of which now has its base in Asakusa.

"Asakusa Shinoda-zushi" is a takeout-only shop offering only "inari-zushi" and "kanpyo-maki." You can choose a set combining "inari-zushi" and "kanpyo-maki," or them separately.

With a simple yet refined flavor, it is reputed that many people go out of their way to stop by just to eat this shop's kanpyo-maki.
Since it ends once sold out, if you definitely want to eat it, an early visit is recommended.

Asakusa Shinoda-zushi

Phone: 03-3844-1795
Address: 1-1-10 Kaminarimon, Taito-ku, Tokyo
Map: https://goo.gl/maps/21yFw4Xtzs8mKgNC9
Hours: 9:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m. (closing time may be earlier), open Sundays
Closed: Wednesday (open if it falls on a holiday)
Budget: [dinner] 1,000 yen [lunch] 1,000 yen
Website: http://www.bentenyama-miyakosushi.com/ja/
*Please confirm the latest information with the shop before visiting.

"Kanda Yoshikame" (Tokyo)

The next recommendation is "Kanda Yoshikame," in the arcade next to Kanda Station.
An old-established shop in its 70th year, it features not only fresh ingredients sourced daily from Toyosu Market but also Edomae-style rolled sushi as one of its highlights.

More than ten kinds of rolls can be had from 300 yen per roll, and they are so easy to eat that, it is widely said, once you eat one you can't stop reaching for more.

Its selection beyond rolled sushi is also abundant, and you can enjoy local sake along with the rolls. With its delicious kanpyo-maki of course, it is a recommended shop easy to use for various occasions, whether visiting alone for a little luxury or dropping by casually after drinking.

Kanda Yoshikame

Phone: 03-3251-4372
Address: 2-13-22 Kajicho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
Map: https://goo.gl/maps/iZpa1kFD8vRzAWHU7
Hours:
- Lunch (possibly only during the COVID period) [Tue-Fri] (closed Mon) 11:30-14:00
- Dinner [Mon-Fri] 17:00-1:00 the next day (L.O. 0:30 the next day) [Sat] 17:00-22:00
Closed: Sunday
Budget: [dinner] 1,000-2,000 yen [lunch] 7,000-9,000 yen
Website: http://www.kandayoshikame.com/
*Please confirm the latest information with the shop before visiting.

"Sushidokoro Yoshida" (Aichi)

 

The last one we introduce is "Sushidokoro Yoshida," near Homi Station in Toyota City, Aichi Prefecture. Located under the elevated railway tracks, it looks like an unassuming, ordinary shop at first glance, but it was listed in the "Michelin Guide Tokai Edition, Aichi (Nagoya) 2019" and is known as a popular sushi shop in Aichi Prefecture.

Though it is a sushi shop with a casual, easygoing popular atmosphere, what is served is authentic Edomae-zushi. Along with highly fresh sushi toppings, you can eat exquisite kanpyo-maki, and the wasabi-filled kanpyo-maki is reputed to be so delicious it will move you to admiration.

Long loved by locals, you can eat authentic Edomae-zushi at a reasonable price, so it is reputed to have very high cost performance, the top-recommended sushi shop in Toyota City, Aichi Prefecture.

Sushidokoro Yoshida

Phone: 0565-48-5113
Address: 70-5 Daimon, Higashihomi-cho, Toyota City, Aichi Prefecture
Map: https://goo.gl/maps/x84aNCrsfVdihGF49
Hours: 11:30-14:00, 17:00-22:00, open Sundays
Closed: Thursday (irregular consecutive holidays including Thursdays)
Budget: [dinner] 1,000-2,000 yen [lunch] 5,000-8,000 yen
Website: https://tabelog.com/aichi/A2305/A230501/23014898/
*Please confirm the latest information with the shop before visiting.

Kanpyo-maki is simple, but deep

What did you think? Though "kanpyo-maki" looks simple at first glance, it has a great deal of tradition, and the more you learn about it, the more profound and flavorful a dish it is.
If you get the chance, by all means visit the recommended shops and try eating delicious kanpyo-maki!