What is torotaku sushi?

"Torotaku," as the name suggests, is sushi in which tuna toro and chopped takuan (pickled daikon) are rolled together in nori. Abbreviated, it is called "torotaku."

The toro used in the rolled sushi differs by shop—it may be otoro or chutoro.
The moderately salted takuan brings out the umami of the tuna, and eating it together with fragrant nori gives an indescribable, unique flavor.

Toro and takuan may seem at first glance like an unbalanced combination, but in fact they go very well together, with a somehow nostalgic taste, and the kabuki actor Ichikawa Ebizo is a big fan of torotaku. He has shown his fondness for it many times on his own blog.

Also, torotaku can be enjoyed not only as a filling for rolled sushi but also as a snack with alcohol. Pickles originally go well with alcohol, and when the oozing umami of toro is added, it is finished into an exquisite taste. As a variation, adding grated garlic or Korean nori lets you enjoy yet another different flavor.

Where did torotaku originate?

Torotaku sushi is said to have first appeared in the late 1960s to early 1970s (the latter half of the Showa 40s).
There are several shops nationwide said to be the birthplace of torotaku, but among them the most famous is the sushi restaurant "Ozushi" in Niigata Prefecture.

According to the owner, in 1972, after finishing his training in Tokyo, he was trying to create a signature product at his family's sushi restaurant, and the "torotaku roll" was what he came up with. Two years after first making torotaku, magazines and TV came to cover it, and it was introduced as "Ozushi's signature product"; furthermore, customers from the city would have it made at their favorite shops, and the existence of torotaku gradually spread.

In addition, "Sushi Furukawa" in Nishi-Azabu is said to be the birthplace of torotaku nigirizushi. There is no magazine or other source to back it up, but the owner of "Sushi Furukawa" himself writes on the shop's website that he devised torotaku 30 years ago, in the era when he served as head chef at a shop in Roppongi. It began, he says, as a roll combined with takuan so that even people who dislike the fattiness of toro could enjoy it.

In any case, the two shops each have their own differently flavored torotaku passed down for several decades. It might be nice to drop by each shop when you are nearby to see what kind of torotaku they serve.

Niigata Prefecture "Niigata-mae Sushi-dokoro Ozushi"

Founded in 1950, "Niigata-mae Sushi-dokoro Ozushi" is a famous sushi restaurant known as one of the birthplaces of torotaku sushi, having been introduced as a sushi restaurant serving torotaku sushi in "Sushi no Zasshi," a special issue of Kindai Shokudo first published in 1972.

Making use of Niigata's geographic advantage of being right by the sea, the shop has a strong commitment to sushi, using fresh seafood caught from the Sea of Japan and Uonuma-grown Koshihikari rice; besides torotaku, it is a recommended sushi restaurant with many sushi using unique ingredients and seasonal a-la-carte dishes.

Niigata-mae Sushi-dokoro Ozushi

Tokyo, Nishi-Azabu "Sushi Furukawa"

This is a sushi restaurant known as the birthplace of torotaku nigirizushi. The torotaku nigirizushi, said to have been devised more than 35 years ago, has many fans, and many customers visit aiming for it.

The torotaku that the owner started when he was head chef at the Roppongi shop is made by chopping otoro and forming it like an ohagi. The saltiness of the takuan removes the oiliness of the otoro, producing a simple yet exquisite flavor. With its hideaway-like, refined appearance in a quiet residential area, it is a sushi restaurant recommended for dates as well.

Sushi Furukawa

How to make torotaku sushi

It is delicious to eat at a sushi restaurant, but in fact torotaku sushi can be made easily at home, too.
It is nice to make when you want a meal a little different from usual, or as a snack when drinking at home.
The cute combination of the pink of the toro and the yellow of the takuan is perfect for home parties, too.

Ingredients (for one roll)

　1. Sushi rice 20g
　2. Tuna otoro or chutoro (block) 30g
　3. Takuan 5g
　4. Nori (half sheet)
　5. Rolling mat (makisu)

How to make

　1. Mince the tuna otoro
　2. Cut the takuan into thin strips
　3. Place the nori on the rolling mat and spread the sushi rice evenly over the nori
　4. Place the thinly sliced takuan and the otoro on the lower half of the nori
　5. Roll so that the bottom part of the vinegared rice meets the upper vinegared rice

One-point advice

Making it a thin roll makes it harder to roll, so the key is to make it a slightly thick medium roll.
Nori becomes hard to cut when it contains moisture, so after rolling, leave it for a little while to dry before cutting for a clean cut; also, wiping the knife with a damp cloth each time you cut the roll lets you cut it even more cleanly.

Bonus: how to make torotaku donburi

For those who find it a hassle to use a rolling mat or to spread sushi rice and roll, torotaku donburi is recommended. The way to make it is even simpler than rolled sushi. The rice can be ordinary white rice rather than sushi rice.
It is something you can easily try, so it is worth attempting at least once!

Ingredients (for 4 people)

1. Tuna otoro or chutoro 180g
2. Takuan, about 5 cm
3. 6 shiso leaves
4. 4 bowls of rice
5. Toasted nori
6. Grated wasabi
7. White toasted sesame, soy sauce

How to make

　1. Cut the tuna into 2 cm cubes
　2. Chop the takuan into about 5 mm pieces
　3. Finely mince the shiso
　4. Put the toro and takuan in a bowl and mix
　5. Serve the cooked rice in a donburi bowl, top with the mixed toro and takuan, and sprinkle the shiso
　6. Top with toasted nori, grated wasabi, white toasted sesame, and soy sauce, and it's done

Using kombu soy sauce instead of regular soy sauce lets you enjoy it in yet another way.
You can also further arrange the torotaku donburi by adding natto and egg yolk to make a "torotaku bomb donburi." Adding okra to boost the sticky texture, or making your own original torotaku donburi, is also recommended.

Summary

How was it? This time we introduced "torotaku" sushi, a sushi perfect for adults.
Torotaku is versatile—good to eat as rolled sushi, and good as a snack with alcohol.

The way to make it was truly simple and easy, wasn't it? It might be a good idea to make it at dinner when you think, "I'd like just one more dish..." Please be sure to savor torotaku, which is packed with so much appeal.