Something you often see when you go to Kansai is saba-zushi (mackerel sushi). Saba-zushi, with the exquisite deliciousness of vinegar-cured mackerel. Many people may buy it as ekiben (station box lunch) or at regional product fairs. What features does saba-zushi have, and how has it developed? Let us look at the appeal of saba-zushi.

What is saba-zushi?

Saba-zushi is, as the name suggests, sushi made with mackerel.
It is vinegar-cured mackerel placed on top of sushi rice, and there are also pressed mackerel sushi and fermented mackerel sushi (narezushi).

Because pressed sushi developed mainly in the Kansai region, pressed mackerel sushi can also be seen widely in the Kansai area.
You can see its various forms in numerous regional dishes, such as Kyoto's bo-zushi, Osaka's battera, Nara Prefecture's kaki-no-ha-zushi (persimmon-leaf sushi), Kochi's sugata-zushi, and Wakayama Prefecture's shimo-zushi.

The history of saba-zushi, which developed in Kansai

How and why did saba-zushi, beloved in the Kansai region, come into being and develop?

Saba-zushi has long been a specialty of Kyoto.
Unlike Edo, which had the sea spread out before it, Kyoto is located far from the sea.

What was born in the process of transporting mackerel, which has poor preservability, from Wakasa Bay to Kyoto was vinegar-cured mackerel.
From Fukui Prefecture, a producing area of mackerel, to Kyoto, mackerel that had been processed for preservation was carried along a route commonly called the "Saba Kaido" (Mackerel Highway).

The birth of saba-zushi, in which vinegar-cured mackerel is placed on shari and eaten, was also greatly related to such geographical conditions in Kyoto.
Even today in Kyoto there is a custom of eating saba-zushi in connection with events such as the three major festivals, and that tradition is being reliably carried on.

The "Saba Kaido" is also said to have existed on the Kii Peninsula.
Due to the existence of such transport routes, saba-zushi came to be born in various parts of Kansai, including Wakayama.

How to make saba-zushi

Many people who dislike mackerel may find that they can eat saba-zushi, which has no fishy smell.
Saba-zushi is made through the following steps.

1. Fillet salted mackerel into three pieces
2. Remove the bloodline of the mackerel and wash it in vinegared water
3. Marinate the mackerel in vinegar for about 30 minutes
4. Form the sushi rice into a bar shape
5. Place the mackerel, flesh-side up after removing it from the vinegar, on the sushi rice
6. Shape it with a rolling mat and wrap it in bamboo leaves
7. Place a weight on the saba-zushi and let it rest overnight

Since mackerel also carries the risk of food poisoning from anisakis, take great care when making it at home. (*1)

Famous saba-zushi restaurants

Saba-zushi can be seen in various places when you head to Kansai, but let us introduce a few popular, famous establishments.

Izuu

When it comes to saba-zushi, it's "Izuu."
The taste of this long-established shop founded in 1781 is a face of Kyoto that often appears in novels set in Kyoto.

Not only as today's food culture but having developed alongside the aesthetics of the geisha district, Izuu's saba-zushi is beloved under the name "saba sugata-zushi" and conveys its traditional flavor.

The retro wrapping paper is also charming.

Store name: Gion Shinchi Izuu
Address: 367 Kiyomotocho, Gion Shinchi, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto City
Phone: 075-561-0751
Website: https://www.izuu.jp/

Saba Kaido Hanaore

"Saba Kaido Hanaore," which takes its name from the highway that nurtured saba-zushi.
This shop, boasting over 100 years since its founding, defends its flavor by using not only top-quality mackerel caught in the Sea of Japan but also domestically produced first-class rice and kombu.

In addition to ordinary saba-zushi, a seared version is also one of its popular items.

Store name: Saba Kaido Hanaore
Address: 121 Shimogamo Miyazakicho, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto City
Phone: 075-712-5245
Website: https://www.hanaore.co.jp/

Sakai

"Sakai," located close to Nishiki Market, which tourists also visit.
It is a small sushi shop that has continued since 1953, but there are rumors that its saba-zushi is the best in Kyoto.

Even though it is saba-zushi, the degree of pressing and the vinegar curing are gentle, and it is saba-zushi characterized by a soft, fluffy texture.
The reasonable price is also said to be a reason it has many regular customers.

Store name: Sakai
Address: 592 Nishiuwoyacho, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto City
Phone: 075-231-9240