Sushi Legends Vol. 1 — Jiro Ono, the Legendary Sushi Master (Sukiyabashi Jiro)
Jiro's upbringing, and the birth of Sukiyabashi Jiro
Jiro Ono was born in 1925 (Taisho 14) in Tenryu Ward, Hamamatsu City, Shizuoka Prefecture, making him 97 years old as of 2023.
Jiro Ono's father was the boatman of a vessel that transported lumber, but as life became difficult due to the Showa Depression, Jiro was placed in the care of relatives, and one year later, at the tender age of seven, he was sent off into apprenticeship.
The place where Jiro Ono was sent to serve was "Fukudaya," a Japanese restaurant and ryokan said to be the finest in the area. While attending elementary school, he cleaned, made deliveries, washed dishes, and continued working until late at night every day. By his own recollection, he was extremely clumsy even back then, and because everything he did took him a long time, his days were filled with being scolded.
During his apprenticeship, the young Jiro often collapsed into bed and fell asleep from exhaustion, yet he says he had nowhere else to go and never once thought of it as painful. Having endured such a harsh environment, Jiro acquired at "Fukudaya" the fundamentals of working in a Japanese cuisine restaurant.
Later, at the age of 16, he was conscripted to work at a munitions factory, but after the end of the war he began working as a chef at a Japanese restaurant in Hamamatsu. However, Jiro, whose dream was to have his own restaurant, chose sushi as his trade because it seemed to require relatively little to prepare when becoming independent.
At the age of 25, he joined "Yoshino" in Kyobashi, Tokyo, which was said to be one of the three greatest sushi restaurants. There he became an apprentice to Sueyoshi Yoshino, hailed as a master of Edomae sushi. He achieved his long-cherished independence in 1965, when Jiro Ono was around 40 years old, after as many as 15 years of training.
It was a shop of only 15 tsubo, but from this moment the history of "Sukiyabashi Jiro," one of Japan's most representative Edomae sushi restaurants, began.
Jiro's uncompromising style
The Jiro nigiri
Jiro Ono's sushi is known for a distinctive forming technique called the "Jiro nigiri."
Jiro is left-handed and, by his own admission, has been quite clumsy since childhood. For these reasons, when Jiro first became an apprentice, he is said to have struggled, unable to perform the traditional hontegaeshi forming technique well.
However, Jiro, who is by nature fond of work and full of inquiring spirit, devoted himself to relentless practice using leftover vinegared rice and okara (soy pulp), and devised his own forming method, the "Jiro nigiri." Rather than the hontegaeshi method of switching hands, it rolls the sushi over on the hand to turn it, increasing the speed of forming. It is characterized by a firm exterior and a soft interior texture. It can be said to be a forming method unique to Jiro Ono, who insists on speed because sushi tastes best when freshly formed.
The forming method adjusts the amount of pressure depending on the topping. For example, a little firmer for squid, softer for tuna or conger eel, and so on. It was this exquisite balance that gave birth to Jiro Ono's sushi, which makes connoisseurs marvel.
The temperature of the sushi toppings, the order in which they are formed, the preparation leading up to forming, and the thoroughly clean interior of the restaurant—Jiro Ono is endless in his meticulous preparation and ingenuity. He also manages his own hands with great care as tools of his trade, and is famous for maintaining beautiful hands that, even now at an advanced age, betray no sign of his years.
Jiro Ono's dedication to sushi
Jiro Ono created the Jiro nigiri, but his particular dedication extends not only to the forming but to sushi in general. There are three such principles.
1. The rice at body temperature
For the Jiro nigiri, the rice is the most important element of the sushi.
At Sukiyabashi Jiro, the rice is cooked up to 30 minutes before the guest's arrival and kept at a constant temperature. It is Jiro Ono's belief that keeping the rice at body temperature stabilizes the flavor of the nigiri, and indeed many renowned chefs savor the deliciousness of Sukiyabashi Jiro's rice.
2. Strong acidity
The rice at Sukiyabashi Jiro is said to be strongly acidic.
It is Jiro's philosophy that rice with strong acidity is precisely what creates a sense of unity with the topping. In summer in particular, the acidity is said to be made stronger.
Proper management of the sushi toppings
Jiro says that 90 percent of a sushi chef's work is finished before the forming even begins. At Sukiyabashi Jiro, not only is each topping kept at the temperature appropriate to it, but a great deal of effort is also put into the preparation known as "teate" (treatment). Discerning the toppings and, in order to draw out their deliciousness to the fullest, preparing them by curing with vinegar or salt is what elevates the flavor of Sukiyabashi Jiro's sushi.
Sukiyabashi Jiro's "omakase"
Jiro Ono's sushi has one more characteristic: it is consistently an "omakase" course of 20 pieces of nigiri. These 20 pieces, selected based on half a century of experience, are the Jiro style.
Sukiyabashi Jiro's "omakase," served with consideration for the order of forming and the temperature of the toppings and rice, is also praised for aligning with recent environmental thinking in that there is no waste of ingredients.
An insatiable pursuit and thorough habits
Having worked continuously for nearly 90 years since entering service at the age of seven, Jiro Ono says that because working is enjoyable, he will never quit his work. While the Jiro style is basically to think about forming and preparing sushi while moving his hands on site, he says he is bad at sitting still, and even in his private life he never neglects the effort and ingenuity directed toward making the supreme sushi.
From commuting on foot from his home in Nakano to his shop in Ginza—a kind of working out that also serves to maintain the physical stamina needed to stand behind the counter—to visiting famous restaurants and trending eateries with his family to cultivate his sense of taste, he is so thorough that it seems as if everything is for the sake of making the supreme sushi.
Even while earning fame from around the world, Jiro Ono says he spends every single day intently thinking and repeatedly refining his craft, wondering whether there might be a way to make it even more delicious and how it can be made more delicious. There is no doubt that this accumulation of insatiable inquiry and habit is one of the elements that produced the supreme sushi chef Jiro Ono.
JIRO of the world
A while after "Sukiyabashi Jiro" opened, in 1994 it was selected as the world's 6th best restaurant by the International Herald Tribune. In 2005 it was honored by the Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare as a "Contemporary Master Craftsman." Jiro Ono's passion, skill, and artistry toward sushi came to be highly regarded both at home and abroad as part of Japan's traditional culture.
Here, let us look at some of the achievements of Jiro Ono and "Sukiyabashi Jiro."
Consecutive three Michelin stars and registration in the Guinness Book of Records
Among Sukiyabashi Jiro's achievements, one can cite the fact that it earned three stars in the Michelin Guide Tokyo, first published in Japan in 2007, and continued to earn three stars for more than ten consecutive years thereafter, up until the 2019 edition, when it was delisted on the grounds that general customers could no longer make reservations (general reservations are now available again).
In addition, in 2019 the Guinness Book of Records certified Jiro Ono as the "oldest head chef of a three-Michelin-star restaurant," and since Jiro Ono is still active as of April 2023, this record has yet to be broken.
A film appearance, and a renowned restaurant that overseas celebrities compete to visit
In 2011, the film "Jiro Dreams of Sushi" was released in the United States. This is a documentary film depicting Jiro Ono at its center, along with his sons Yoshikazu Ono and Takashi Ono and his apprentices, with the men themselves appearing in it.
With the release of this film, its reputation spread across borders, and notable figures including Hollywood stars began to visit one after another. "Sukiyabashi Jiro" is also known as the restaurant where former Prime Minister Shinzo Abe and former President Obama dined together, and it appears this was decided at the strong personal request of Mr. Obama, who had seen this film.
Acclaim from home and abroad, and exchanges with accomplished chefs overseas
Jiro Ono's skill became widely known to the world thanks to the film. In 2011 he was honored by the regional government of Valencia, Spain as an "outstanding chef using rice," and in 2014 he received the Medal with Yellow Ribbon in the autumn conferment of decorations—the spread of his fame knows no bounds.
Furthermore, Joël Robuchon, the master of French cuisine who has earned more than 30 Michelin stars, is also a regular who lavishes praise on "Sukiyabashi Jiro," and as a close friend and rival the two have continued their exchange for nearly 30 years, visiting each other's restaurants.
"Sukiyabashi Jiro," the renowned Edomae sushi restaurant
Now, up to this point we have focused on the person Jiro Ono as a biography of a great figure, but what kind of sushi restaurant is the Sukiyabashi Jiro that the master sushi chef Jiro Ono raised, and how does one actually go there? From here, we would like to look at Sukiyabashi Jiro as a restaurant—its characteristics, reservation method, dress code, and more.
Sukiyabashi Jiro and its affiliated restaurants
The Sukiyabashi Jiro main restaurant, founded in 1965, is a small sushi restaurant with counter seats only.The restaurant has no menu; its style is to serve an "omakase" of 20 pieces of nigiri chosen by Mr. Jiro Ono and his eldest son Yoshikazu according to the season and circumstances.
Currently, the main restaurant in Ginza is run by Mr. Jiro Ono and his eldest son Yoshikazu Ono, while his second son Takashi Ono is in charge of the Roppongi branch.Although offers to open branches come to Mr. Jiro Ono from countries around the world, because he insists on staying within a range he can personally oversee for quality control, the affiliated restaurants remain in Tokyo.
In addition to the main restaurant and the Roppongi branch run by the Ono family, there is one branch inside Takashimaya in Nihombashi, and a Toyosu branch opened through norenwake (granting use of the shop name to a disciple)—four restaurants in all.
The origin of a curious name
By the way, although his given name "Jiro" is written with one set of characters, some of you may have wondered why the restaurant is "Sukiyabashi Jiro" written with a different character for "Jiro" instead. The reason Mr. Jiro himself gives is that "this alternative character for Jiro looks better when written on a shop sign and the like."
Mr. Jiro Ono is known as a taciturn sushi chef, but this is a heartwarming anecdote that offers a glimpse of his stylish side.
The prices and reservations of Sukiyabashi Jiro
The price of Sukiyabashi Jiro, when dining at the Ginza main restaurant, starts from ¥55,000 for 20 pieces.
At the Roppongi branch the price comes down a little, with lunch starting from ¥25,000 and dinner from ¥35,000, while the norenwake branches—with sets under ¥5,000—are priced considerably lower than the main restaurant or the Roppongi branch.
Because the restaurants basically have only counter seats, reservations are essential, and reservations are accepted by telephone only. When reserving from overseas, note that reservations are accepted only through the concierge of your accommodation in Japan, so caution is required.
There is no particularly strict dress code, but sensible attire is expected. The majority of guests come dressed in jackets, and the restaurant's website states that collarless shirts, shorts, and sandals should be refrained from, so it is best to avoid going in overly casual attire.
Also, while this is not limited to Sukiyabashi Jiro, when visiting a high-end sushi restaurant that is so particular about its sushi toppings, it is best to refrain from wearing perfume, which can adversely affect the delicate sushi toppings.
Sukiyabashi Jiro restaurant information
Sukiyabashi Jiro currently has four restaurants, including its affiliated branches.Let us look at the information for each of them.
Sukiyabashi Jiro, Ginza Main Restaurant
The Ginza main restaurant is run by Mr. Jiro Ono, the founder of Sukiyabashi Jiro, and his eldest son Yoshikazu Ono. It is a popular restaurant where reservations are difficult, but many people surely wish to savor its sushi at the main restaurant at least once in their lifetime.
Unlike the other branches, it is a small restaurant with only a counter, but do experience the supreme sushi here.
Name: Sukiyabashi Jiro
Address: Tsukamoto Sogyo Bldg. B1F, 4-2-15 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
Google Map: https://goo.gl/maps/g5AUrUA6fPgW4UVZ8
Tel: 03-3535-3600
Website: https://www.sushi-jiro.jp/
Sukiyabashi Jiro, Roppongi Branch
Currently the only affiliated restaurant to hold two Michelin stars, Sukiyabashi Jiro Roppongi is run by Takashi Ono, the second son of Jiro Ono.
Its refined sushi, which suits the setting of Roppongi Hills, was born from the insatiable inquiring spirit inherited from his father.
Savor the Jiro nigiri passed down here in a modern interior.
Name: Sushi Sukiyabashi Jiro
Address: 3F, Keyakizaka-dori, Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Google Map: https://goo.gl/maps/wZh76F9bXoZUM6dk9
Tel: 03-5413-6626
Website: https://www.roppongihills.com/gourmet_shops/0138.html
Sukiyabashi Jiro, Nihombashi Branch
Takashimaya in Nihombashi, where illustrious establishments such as Robuchon and the Imperial Hotel have opened branches.
Sukiyabashi Jiro's Nihombashi branch is also located inside Takashimaya.
It is a norenwake branch run by a disciple, and its price of under ¥5,000 for an assortment is also part of its appeal.
Name: Sushidokoro Sukiyabashi Jiro
Address: 7F, Nihombashi Takashimaya S.C., 2-4-1 Nihombashi, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
Google Map: https://goo.gl/maps/LzYT7q96NJY4q5Tf9
Tel: 03-3211-4111
Website: https://www.takashimaya.co.jp/nihombashi/specialtystores/shop/300006
Sukiyabashi Jiro, Toyosu Branch
The Sukiyabashi Jiro Toyosu branch is the restaurant of a disciple who, after 12 years of training at the main restaurant, was the first to receive a norenwake.
Its prices are reasonable compared to the main restaurant, and its lunch, limited to 25 servings a day, is ¥1,400. It is a delight that one can casually enjoy the taste of Sukiyabashi Jiro.
Name: Sukiyabashi Jiro Toyosu Branch
Address: 4-10-1-102 Toyosu, Koto-ku, Tokyo
Google Map: https://goo.gl/maps/cREce2E61MfhXA969
Tel: 03-3534-8400
Watch Jiro Ono's way of life!
Jiro Ono's way of life, which has come to be known worldwide, has been made into both an overseas documentary film and an NHK documentary program.
From Jiro Ono's uncompromising nature as a craftsman, the depth of his inquiring spirit, his curiosity—from the figure of a craftsman pursuing his path—there is much to learn. Please do watch his way of life as a forerunner in life.
The film "Jiro Dreams of Sushi"
"Jiro Dreams of Sushi," with its memorable poetic title, is a documentary film shot by the American film director David Gelb. It was released in 2011 by the director, who was astonished by the taste of the sushi Jiro Ono forms and moved by his craftsmanship and style.
It is a masterpiece that depicts Jiro Ono, who has become a living legend, through his two sons who are also his apprentices, and a profoundly moving work even when viewed as the portrait of a single family. It can also be viewed online on Amazon Prime, Netflix, and the like.
Please enjoy the beautiful drama that unfolds with sushi at its core.
The film "Jiro Dreams of Sushi" (Amazon Prime)
NHK's "Professional: Shigoto no Ryūgi" (Professional: The Way of Work) — "Training never ends in a lifetime: The work of sushi chef Jiro Ono"
As the fourth installment of a series that thoroughly delves into the work of leading professionals active in various fields, this is a documentary program that closely followed Mr. Jiro Ono, then 82 years old, broadcast on January 8, 2008. It depicts how Mr. Jiro Ono thinks about sushi and with what feelings he has done his work.
Don't miss the serious showdown with Joël Robuchon, the "emperor of the French culinary world," who was also introduced in this feature!
References
「すきやばし次郎」小野ニ郎の「すし屋の心得」#1 - Cuisine王国 (cuisine-kingdom.com)
次郎のこだわり - すきやばし次郎 SUKIYABASHI JIRO (sushi-jiro.jp)
二郎は鮨の夢を見る | 映画 | WOWOWオンライン
Oldest head chef of a three Michelin star restaurant | Guinness World Records
鮨 すきやばし 次郎 | Roppongiヒルズ - Roppongi Hills
