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Karei no Engawa (Flounder Fin) Sushi

Karei (Righteye flounder / Flatfish)

White Fish & Salmon

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Order Pleuronectiformes, Family Pleuronectidae

It lives on the sandy and muddy seabed of shallow and deep seas around the world. There are about 113 species, most of which are edible. It has a flat body suited to lurking on the seabed, and, with some exceptions, both of its eyes are on the right side of its body.

About 113 species live on the sandy-muddy seabed of relatively cold regions around the world. It resembles the hirame in shape but belongs to a different family, and unlike the generally short-lived hirame, it is long-lived, with some species living close to 50 years. When it comes to karei as a sushi topping, marbled flounder (makogarei) and brown sole (magarei) are common, but there are many other karei used as sushi toppings as well. These include the barfin flounder (matsukawagarei) and spotted halibut (hoshigarei), known to be higher-grade than hirame; the giant Pacific halibut (ohyo) caught in northern regions, which grows to as much as 3 meters; the Greenland halibut (karasugarei) and arrowtooth flounder (aburagarei) often used as engawa at conveyor-belt sushi restaurants; the stone flounder (ishigarei), high-grade in Tokyo; the ridged-eye flounder (meitagarei), popular in the Kansai region; and the roughscale sole (samegarei), which looks like a tattered rag but has a melting fat. The peak season for karei varies by species, but it is said to be hirame in winter and makogarei in summer, and makogarei around June is the top choice among summer white-fleshed fish. Karei are caught throughout the country, but they are caught in large numbers in northern regions such as Miyagi and Aomori prefectures and around Hokkaido. Also, although the catch is small, the makogarei caught in Oita Prefecture is known for its excellent flavor as "joka-garei" (castle-town flounder), and in the Edo period only samurai were allowed to eat it. Karei is cheaper than its close relative the hirame, and because it has the off-smell characteristic of bottom-dwelling fish, it was sometimes shunned by sushi restaurants, but now that the umami of karei has come to be appreciated, it is counted as one of the popular sushi toppings. Karei is delicious on its own, but because it is delicate, its umami increases when cured with kombu (kombu-jime).

The Superb Karei Endorsed Even by Kitaoji Rosanjin

Generally, karei is cheaper than hirame, but the spotted halibut (hoshigarei) and barfin flounder (matsukawagarei) are more expensive than wild hirame or sea bream, and in the Kanto region they are often considered the highest grade of white-fleshed fish. Even Kitaoji Rosanjin, famous as a gourmet, wrote that the hoshigarei is delicious, but it cannot be seen in ordinary supermarkets and is a top-grade topping favored by high-end sushi restaurants and kappo establishments.

Makogarei, the Top Choice Among Summer White-fleshed Fish

How About "Karei Rice" for a Change?

"Karei rice" (a pun on "curry rice") is a hearty dish of karei placed on top of rice. It is easy to make. First, put washed rice in a pot and place on top the karei, from which the scales and innards have been removed and over which boiling water has been poured to remove any off-smell.
Next, mix bonito stock (katsuo dashi), soy sauce, and mirin, pour it over the karei and rice, add a little salad oil, and put on the lid. Start over high heat, and once it boils, lower to medium heat and steam for about 20 minutes to finish. Flake the karei meat and mix it with the rice to eat.
Despite its bold appearance, it has a reputation for being extremely delicious, with the umami of the stock and the karei soaking in, so when you get hold of seasonal karei, please be sure to give it a try.