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Anago (Conger Eel) Sushi

Anago (Conger eel)

White Fish & Salmon

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アナゴSushi

Order Anguilliformes, Family Congridae

There are more than 30 genera and over 150 species of conger eel, but when people generally say "anago" they are referring to the whitespotted conger (ma-anago). It is distributed along the coasts of various parts of Japan south of Hokkaido and along the coast of the East China Sea. Although it closely resembles the freshwater eel (unagi) in shape, it is a saltwater fish.

All fish in the family Congridae become edible anago, but in general the term refers to the whitespotted conger. The whitespotted conger lives in the inner bays from Hokkaido to Kyushu, spending the daytime buried in the sand with only its face showing, and emerging from its hole at night to hunt. Because it prefers narrow spaces and has the habit of burrowing into holes, the prevailing theory is that it came to be called "anago," combining "ana" (hole) with "ko" (a character meaning fish/child). Males grow to about 40 cm and females to about 90 cm, with a long, slender, cylindrical body resembling that of an eel. The main production areas are the Seto Inland Sea, the Ariake Sea, and Tokyo Bay, but due to declining catches, imports from China, Taiwan, Korea, and Southeast Asia have increased in recent years. Because its blood and mucus are toxic, caution is required when eating it raw. There are two seasons when it is at its best: summer, from June to August, and autumn through winter, from October to December. In summer it is light and lean, while in winter it takes on fat and is characterized by a rich, full-bodied flavor. Although it is on the pricier side, imports have been increasing, and it is now widely served everywhere from high-end sushi restaurants to conveyor-belt sushi.

How to Eat Anago Sushi

For anago sushi, simmered conger (ni-anago) is mainstream in the Kanto region, while grilled conger (yaki-anago) is mainstream in the Kansai region; it is eaten as nigiri sushi or in thick rolls (futomaki). Unlike other nigiri sushi, it is generally eaten not with soy sauce but with a glaze called "tsume," made by simmering down the cooking liquid from simmered conger together with sugar, soy sauce, mirin, and sake, and brushing it on with a pastry brush. Besides nigiri sushi, it is used in various regional dishes, such as Osaka's "hako-zushi" (box sushi), which uses a wooden box and conger as an ingredient; "anago no oshizushi" (pressed conger sushi) made with grilled conger from the Seto Inland Sea; and Hiroshima Prefecture's "anago-don" (conger rice bowl), which does not use vinegared rice.
Anago Oshizushi (Pressed Conger Eel Sushi) Anago Oshizushi (Pressed Conger Eel Sushi)

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