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Kisu (Whiting) Sushi

Japanese Whiting (Kisu)

Silver-skinned Fish

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きす寿司

Order Perciformes, Family Sillaginidae

Found on sandy bottoms near the coast in the Indian Ocean and western Pacific, though it sometimes occurs in estuaries and freshwater. It grows to 45 cm and up to 70 cm at maximum. With its low-fat, tender white flesh, it is used as food and is also highly popular as a target for sport fishing.

When people say kisu, they generally mean shiro-gisu (Japanese whiting). Kisu (shiro-gisu) is widely distributed along the coasts of East Asia, including Japan, the Korean Peninsula, the Chinese coast, and Taiwan. From spring to summer, they come up to shallow waters less than 15 meters deep for spawning, but otherwise inhabit the sea floor at depths of 40 to 50 meters, with a characteristic habit of burrowing into sand at night.

Kisu has very little fat at about 1%, but before the spawning season from June to September it becomes fattier, making early to mid-summer the peak season. It is also popular as a fish that can be relatively easily caught through surf casting from shore.

Delicious Ways to Eat Kisu Sushi

Fresh kisu has a translucent flesh, but since about 80% of its body is water, lightly rinsing it in salt water before skinning gives it more elasticity and enhances its flavor, rather than using it directly as sushi or sashimi. Additionally, curing it with salt, vinegar, or kombu (kelp) concentrates the umami, producing a richer, bouncier taste.

Kisu also has a distinctive aroma in its skin, and the flavor changes significantly depending on whether the skin is left on or removed. Previously, it was common to cure kisu with vinegar with the skin on, but recently it is more often skinned and used raw as a sushi topping. Skinless kisu, kawashimo-zukuri (skin-blanched) kisu, and yaki-shimo-zukuri (skin-torched) kisu all offer different experiences, so trying various preparations is highly recommended.
Dried shiro-gisu (Japanese whiting) Dried shiro-gisu (Japanese whiting)

The Origin of the Name Kisu

Kisu has two kanji: "鱚" and "鼠頭魚." "鼠頭魚" (literally "mouse-headed fish") derives from the resemblance of kisu's head to that of a mouse, while "鱚" is said to have been created by using the auspicious character "喜" (joy) as a phonetic substitute for "ki." The name "kisu" has been in use since approximately the Edo period, but "kisu" was the Edo (Tokyo) name, while in the Kansai region it was called "kisugo." One theory suggests that because kisu is often found near the shore (kishi), "kishi" was corrupted to "kishiko" (shore child) and then shortened to "kisu." Another theory holds that the name derives from "kiyoshi" (pure/clean), referring to its pure white flesh.

Mouse-headed fish (kisu) fishing in Koda Rohan's essay collection "Chogo" (1901)

https://dl.ndl.go.jp/info:ndljp/pid/889169

Kisu has two kanji: "鱚" and "鼠頭魚." "鼠頭魚" (literally "mouse-headed fish") derives from the resemblance of kisu's head to that of a mouse, while "鱚" is said to have been created by using the auspicious character "喜" (joy) as a phonetic substitute for "ki." The name "kisu" has been in use since approximately the Edo period, but "kisu" was the Edo (Tokyo) name, while in the Kansai region it was called "kisugo." One theory suggests that because kisu is often found near the shore (kishi), "kishi" was corrupted to "kishiko" (shore child) and then shortened to "kisu." Another theory holds that the name derives from "kiyoshi" (pure/clean), referring to its pure white flesh.

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