【Reading】すりわさび

【English Name】Freshly Grated Wasabi

The lead role in suri-wasabi (grated wasabi) is played by hon-wasabi (true wasabi), a plant native to Japan (scientific name: Eutrema japonicum). It is a delicate plant that takes root only by the clear, pure waters of mountain valleys, with Shizuoka, Nagano, and Shimane Prefectures listed among its principal cultivation areas. While the majority of tube-packed paste wasabi is mainly Western horseradish (horseradish), grated wasabi is essentially a different thing in that it uses the rhizome of this true wasabi as is.

The key to its preparation is a dedicated tool called a samegawa-oroshi (sharkskin grater). The fine projections covering its surface evenly break apart the fibers of the wasabi, finishing it into a fine-grained paste. The smoothness on the palate and the rich aroma are products unique to this tool, and herein lies the reason sushi artisans have long favored its use.

Grated wasabi immediately after grating harbors a faint sweetness beneath its sharp pungency, and a clear, refreshing coolness runs through the nasal passages. However, the attenuation of its fragrance and flavor is astonishingly rapid, so artisans strictly adhere to the technique of grating only a very small amount just before forming the nigiri. In the world of Edomae sushi, a slight amount is tucked between the shari and the neta, serving as a device to further bring out the umami of the ingredient itself.

Grating slowly while drawing an arc, starting from the stem side of the rhizome, makes it easier to maintain the balance of pungency and aroma. It is one of the gestures that artisans have transmitted across many generations.