【Reading】はたはたすし/はたはたづけ

【English Name】Hatahata sushi

Hatahata-zushi is one of the representative local dishes of Akita Prefecture, and it is a type of fermented sushi known as izushi. The base ingredient, the sailfin sandfish (hatahata), is a fish that symbolizes Akita, and it has the habit of swarming toward the coast to spawn in winter.

To make it, the hatahata is first prepared and salt-cured; after the salt is rinsed out, the fish is layered and packed into a barrel together with rice mixed with koji (malted rice), root vegetables such as turnip and carrot, and kelp, then a weight is placed on top and it undergoes lactic-acid fermentation for about three to four weeks. The ippiki-zushi, in which whole fish are pickled, is regarded as the most formal style, but forms such as zen-zushi, with the head removed, and kiri-zushi, made from fillets, are also widely produced.

It is characterized by a complex flavor in which the gentle sourness from fermentation, the sweetness derived from koji, and the umami of the fish come together; besides being eaten raw as is, it can also be enjoyed grilled. In Akita, it was once prepared in every household as a precious source of protein during winter.

In the Karo district of Tottori Prefecture as well, a distinctive hatahata-zushi culture seasoned with okara (soybean pulp) and vinegar has taken root, beloved locally as a ceremonial dish for spring festivals.