【Reading】こけらずし

【English Name】Kokera sushi

Kokera-zushi is an ancient form of sushi, regarded as the prototype of oshizushi (pressed sushi), chirashizushi, and hakozushi (box sushi). Written with various characters such as "杮Sushi" or "鱗鮨," it survives as a regional dish mainly in western Japan. The oldest record is a family chronicle by a Shinto priest of Yoshida Shrine in the 14th century. Originally a lactic-acid-fermented sushi, it shifted to a vinegar-based method in the Edo period. In a cookbook of Tenmei 5 (1785), it appears as an Osaka specialty made with sea bream (tai). Around Owase City in Mie Prefecture, the technique of inserting leaves of myoga (Japanese ginger) and karashina (mustard greens) is characteristic. It varies by region: on Awaji Island, denbu of dried small fish is used; in Kaiyo Town, Tokushima Prefecture, only vegetables; and in Toyo Town, Kochi Prefecture, it is a large sawachi-ryori platter dressed with yuzu vinegar. Although the number of makers is declining, in Arima Onsen, Hyogo Prefecture, efforts to revive it for international visitors are underway.