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Neri-garashi — Japanese Mustard Paste

【Reading】ねりがらし

【English Name】Prepared Mustard

Neri-garashi is a seasoning made by grinding seeds of brown mustard and the like, mixing them with water, and kneading them into a paste. Made from the seeds of plants in the Brassicaceae family, it is a condiment deeply rooted in Japanese cuisine.

The types are broadly divided into two systems. Domestically produced "wa-garashi" (Japanese mustard) is made from raw material in which brown mustard (Brassica juncea) is defatted and powdered. What produces the pungency is allyl isothiocyanate, generated when the glycoside sinigrin is enzymatically broken down, and it has a sharp, piercing stimulation that pushes up through the nasal cavity. On the other hand, "yo-garashi" (Western mustard) mainly uses white mustard (Sinapis alba), and because the composition of its pungent components differs from the former, it has a milder finish.

In the context of sushi, its connection with "shima-zushi," the local dish of Hachijojima in Tokyo, is especially noteworthy. In a warm island environment unsuited to cultivating wasabi, mustard has traditionally been chosen as a substitute for adding pungency. Combining neri-garashi with soy-sauce-marinated neta and a rather high-sugar vinegared rice is the greatest individuality that sets shima-zushi apart from other sushi.

Its uses are not limited to sushi; it is also prized as a tabletop condiment for natto, oden, and chuka-man (steamed buns). Centered on the Kansai, Chugoku, and northern Kyushu regions, the custom of eating chuka-man with neri-garashi has become familiar to the local areas. Its distribution forms are diverse—in tubes, in small sachets, and so on—and it is widely popular in both commercial and home settings.
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