【Reading】ささまきずし

【English Name】Sasamaki-zushi

Belonging to the lineage of pressed sushi (oshizushi) that wraps vinegared rice and toppings in bamboo grass leaves (sasa) is sasamaki-zushi. Its representative example is kenuki-zushi, which occupied a place among the "Edo San-zushi" (three great sushi of Edo) and whose name was widely known from the Edo period.

This shop, said to have been founded in 1702, is said to have begun when the first-generation Matsuzaki Kiemon hung out its shop curtain at Kamadogashi near Nihonbashi Ningyocho. It is a sushi inheriting the style from before nigiri sushi spread through the world, a traditional one in the lineage of narezushi and oshizushi.

The greatest feature in its method lies in the preparation process, which thoroughly pursued keeping quality. Strong-acid vinegar is blended into the vinegared rice, and the toppings, after being salt-cured, are steeped in vinegar over several days. These are shaped into bite-size pieces, placed atop the vinegared rice, and carefully wrapped in bamboo grass leaves while applying pressure to expel excess air. The antibacterial components inherent in the bamboo grass itself have also contributed to improved shelf life.

Because this method requires much labor and aging time, sasamaki-zushi once occupied the position of a luxury item and was prized as a gift to daimyo families and high-ranking samurai households. It is also recorded as a famous shop in Ningyocho in the essay "Mikaku Gokuraku" serialized in 1927. Today, "Sasamaki Kenuki-zushi Sohonten" carries on the techniques and flavor handed down over many years in Kanda Ogawamachi (Chiyoda Ward).