【Reading】もどりがつお

【English Name】Returning Bonito (Autumn Katsuo)

Modori-gatsuo (returning skipjack) refers to skipjack tuna that, having headed north along the Pacific coast riding the flow of the Kuroshio Current from late spring through summer, are landed on their journey back to the southern waters as autumn arrives.

While the hatsugatsuo (first skipjack) that appears in spring has a light lean flesh as its hallmark, in the case of modori-gatsuo, because it grows by feeding amply in the rich northern fishing grounds, a rich fat permeates throughout the flesh. From this feature, it is also affectionately known by the alternative name "toro-gatsuo."

The heart of the fishing season is around September to November, with Kochi, Miyagi, Mie, and Shizuoka Prefectures being representative landing areas.

When tasted as sushi, one can savor the umami of its rich fat. Beyond nigiri, some restaurants serve it with the skin side seared, where the seared fragrance and the sweetness of the fat overlap exquisitely. Tataki and sashimi are also highly popular, and the classic way to enjoy them is to add condiments such as grated ginger, garlic, and ponzu.

Hatsugatsuo and modori-gatsuo are the same fish species (scientific name: Katsuwonus pelamis), yet the point that their flavors differ completely depending on the season caught is a major appeal of the fish known as katsuo.