【Reading】あし

【English Name】Ashi

"Ashi," used in the field of sushi and fresh fish, is a trade term referring to the speed at which an ingredient's freshness declines. Written with the Chinese character for "leg" (ashi), "ashi ga hayai" (the leg is fast) means it spoils easily and loses freshness quickly, while "ashi ga osoi" (the leg is slow) means it keeps comparatively well. It is said to be an expression likening the way an ingredient deteriorates and "departs" to the speed of one's legs.

Blue-backed fish (aozakana) such as mackerel, sardine, and Pacific saury are representative "fast-legged" fish, whose quality changes easily in a short time after landing. At sushi restaurants, how skillfully such toppings can be prepared while fresh is a showcase of an artisan's ability. On the other hand, lean tuna and squid fall into the comparatively slow-legged category, but since this varies with temperature and storage conditions, it cannot be stated unconditionally.

Artisans discern the day's weather and the flow of customers at the time of purchasing and arrange their schedule to use up fast-legged ingredients first. This judgment of "reading the ashi" is backed by experience and is an important concept supporting freshness management from preparation to serving.